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Tuesday, April 2, 2013

"I just want to be wonderful"


I don't even think I breathed in 2012. Sold my house on California Drive after owning it for 10 years. Short Sale. Put most of my things into storage- what I didn't give away straight out.  Lived on IPA beer and Junior Mint candies for awhile, living in transit -- first in a hotel room in Palm Desert, then bouncing around until I finally landed in a small duplex in South Palm Desert in the vintage mid-century architecture neighborhood of Silver Spur. Where I am now. Just got home from visiting Tarah and Alex, who are now living at Fort Lewis, Washington, and expecting a baby boy in August. The cat soothes my lonely night, curled up by my feet. I've re-posted some older postings from 2010. I don't know why they popped up as being posted *today*, April Fool's Day 2013, but here they are, out of sequence but always right on time.

I'm wrapping up teaching a workshop for the nationally-based Memoir Project non-profit writing organization....the theme I'm working with as I facilitate a group of 6 wonderful writers is *suicide*.  I selected the topic myself I read for Valley Voices of the Muse this Friday, April 5 as the featured poet in Palm Springs. Saturday, I'm a featured poet at 100,000 Poets for change at a big, three-day international festival in Santa Rosa....I'm in the lineup with poets representing Grito Mujer, a women's rights organization.

Tarah is too damn far away. Every trip to and from Seattle fills my heart and then exhausts it as I return to stone-cold walls. I never could have imagined how hard living alone would be. I realize that I've only lived alone, really, until now, for short times. At 19, it was fun - for a short while. Now, living alone symbolizes losses and changes and 9.0 earthquakes in my personal life that I didn't ask for or want or even expect or have the capacity to conceive. So many rugs have been pulled out from beneath my feet in the past few years. It's a wonder I still stand. But I do.

Drinking green juice and playing with my house pets, and picking up my love for hiking again. I love teaching creative writing at College of the Desert this spring, as I did this past fall. Fabulous class. Great students. I weep at every invitation, even if some envelopes remain unopened. Thank you for thinking of me. Pass the superglue, the self-stick postage stamps.





Monday, April 1, 2013

Faster than words

So my mind and life are moving faster than words. Faster than cathedral bells reach the outposts of village life, faster than love can knock a person down, in all its incarnations, celebratory and shattering. And finally I sit in front of my blog. The desert is kind of a church of its own, as is all of nature. It's what we have in the American west. Lacking visceral history of, you know, those shrines to Christianity - we uneasily sprout temples and mosques here - nature somehow for me works best. It's a place of imagination rather than a surface of insanity. A template for metaphoric understanding. That I have to intuit on top of all this mess.

Tarah comes over today, actually I pick her up en route home from Victorville, where I spent two evenings, along with Brindle and Shasta, but not two days, since Saturday. Tarah and Alex are ensconced in their new studio apartment in Palm Springs, and I'm happy for them having their own place again. I've decided to get the hell out of here on weekends, because weekends - the whole summer - have been hell and I think I can out-drive hell at least some of the time, because I have a good car and southern California is intricately knitted, each unique pocket of diversity, from desert to oceanfront to neighborhood to suburb to cityscape, in a wrinkled mirror pattern all its own that I've yet to entirely, far from ever fully exploring and knowing, with a freeway system that can transport even the most cynical and weary among us into a zen of river-transport that eases the soul from the worst of it. Even as we cross, on perilous, multi-layered "clover leafs," atop massive gashes of sand known as "dry washes" that sometimes perilously flood. But not very often. Waterways without water do the job, for those of us here. That, and the freeways, with their endless opportunities to land along some offramp somewhere entirely new. "Anywhere but here."

And most of all, getting the hell out of here at the end of a work-week helps to soothe the phantom pain, the ebb and flow of the memories I don't want to have, that I never dreamed would haunt me now. Last September, this exact weekend. We were blasting Break On Through to the Other Side, Jim Morrison, eerie and concise Doors, while driving up the Grapevine, heading to Big Sur. Redwood magic, mist-sun on one of my favorite beaches - with the blowhole - soothed by a hike to a waterfall, magnificent pictures that I sobbed over at the funeral, that I made a visual poem from....slightly foggy morning and deer on the lawn....our first weekend back together, really back together. One year ago. This time. Where do I go? From that. The house is emptier than a lightning-scored log. Reminding of some violent moment in the forest that no one saw, a force so violent and secondary that it felled and gutted a giant, ancient redwood tree and knocked it down, a sinkhole and gash so magnanimous a line of Volkswagens could be packed inside of it. Growing ferns, and new limbs, towards the sun. Unstoppable, unsinkable. The way life in the deep places somehow goes on in some ancient ritual of ceremony, a will of its own, and we measure our small progress alongside of it, and mark fragments of time that will someday be entirely overgrown. That is us. You and me. The lot of us. The forest is bigger than I thought, how ignorant was I, and you've been swallowed while I look towards the cathedral rays of light to find my way back to something I once thought. Water brims over the tall rocks. One year ago. You and me, our private time and thoughts. Eckhart Tolle, The Power of Now, and the comparative literary treatise by a Princeton professor on Jim Morrison and the French poet Rimbaud. One year ago. We alternated those two books in the Big Sur Lodge. It was a perfect mix. And I hope you didn't lose the book on Rimbaud. I need it now, I think I can read his poetry in French once again.

Tarah comes to help me as a personal assistant and I'm so relieved, and joyed to have her here: my instant-muse, inspiring me into desert writing and book consciousness. IV drip for dehydrated mom, after a long, strange, suffocating, intensive care kind of summer. Spending this afternoon in our own brand of ironic humor, instant understanding of one another, many laughs, shared lunch, and most of all, back to helping each other out - priceless and teary for me. Much more often than not, in recent months, the world has felt much more hostile than safe for me; much more jagged than smooth; more alone and isolated than I've ever felt.....ever. As my therapist tells me: you walk through hell - one step at a time and just keep moving ahead. Literally, symbolically. This summer has been one inferno I never could have dreamed. Flames lick southern California still, and if it's any small relief, the suffering of dreadful searing summer temps has been more intense in L.A. than here, unheard of. But the burden shared, somehow, it makes me feel a little more connected and understood, if by proxy: I'm not the only one in the sun's glare. And it's late September and the sunflowers are still flowering yellow and it has to cool off, we've already had a few cool licks in this strange, strange grief of song.

Tarah helps me sort through stacks of papers and scattered papers that have accumulated for months and months. I see that the more recent the notes, the more scattered, frantic, and discombobulated is my writing. Even last January, February, March, I was keeping neat, logical notes. Frenzy has been my theme since then, since that lopsided day in April when my world, my spirit, my body, my life, was torn apart - although there are patterns emerging: scrambled messages from the interior of the insanity of grief, and all kinds of phrases, phone numbers, jottings, words, for writing ideas - from poetry collection titles to metaphors to intriguing language clips I've heard or innovated to new writing project ideas, including three short stories I'm trying to baste enough nerve together to write. For some reason, I'm terrified. To the point where, when these stories are at the knife-edge, I gather the dogs, the dog food dish, the bag of dog food (some eaten by crickets already), a box of various books (Puritan, Slouching, Dry Waterfall, Phantom Seed) and the big yellow writing notepads and drive to the high desert, not much cooler but offering a bed in the slow, quiet, safety of Aunt Jeanne's house, with a big yard for the dogs. Tarah. She laughs at my insane pile of sticky notes, reads some of the poem fragments out loud, and laughs in a nice way.....Mom. You are trippy. And it's okay.

And I spend Sunday at West Hollywood Book Fair where I run into several friends - Gayle, Chrystine, Cheryl - and chat with people at the PEN writer's booth, make new writer connections, Red Hen Press, Book Soup, and eat a giant blue snow-cone. It's the little things that soothe, and I give into them. Free bookmarks. Childhood-favorite treats I haven't eaten in years (the snow-cone.) I pose for a headshot that will be photo-shopped into a scene from a classic novel for part of a photo series to be featured on the PEN website (a scene from the film version of To Kill a Mockingbird, when Atticus Finch is on his way to kill the "mad dog.") The free Urth-Cafe reader/author backstage lunch area (well, I did do a live reading for Guerrilla Reads, and all online-journal of video clips.....let's see, Ghost Flower, Friendly Fire, Wonder Valley, Ochoa's Farm and I forget what else....) then, on to Pasadena for the annual southern California Haiku Society's publication-reading, this year, the 10th anniversary edition, titled this year, "Island of Egrets." I have five haiku published this year, based on a haiku walk I led through the powerful, transformational Andreas Canyon in the oases of Indian Canyons, on Cahuilla Indian land in Palm Springs. So I read my haiku aloud and did it barefoot, in a new dress, because my shoes were hot. The event was on an outside patio. More friends, lots of them. Debbie, Kath Abela, Mike, Oleg, Naia, Marcyn, Billie, and more. Nice people. A safe day. Indian food afterwards, lots of it, and ice cold beer, with some really nice people and bless them, they made me laugh with many jokes and good humor. Lots of dark freeway driving after that and I didn't feel so addicted to the tabloids this weekend, or to a wrenching day of nonstop crying, as I did last Sunday. I even had to buy a pack of cigarettes - Native American ultra lights - at a Palm Desert liquor store (plus Perrier, large bottle) and I don't even smoke, but I was so upset just the act of buying cigarettes calmed me down. Today, Tarah disapproves: Mom, are you smoking? No, the pack is unopened, see? I was really upset last weekend....so I bought them. Tarah knows me well, so she doesn't ask. Her mom, the quirky poet. It's beautiful and wonderful to be understood and not judged.

Time to take Tarah home. I run her by Bank of America, but not until we stop at Coffee Bean for two large size (one for each of us) ice Japanese cherry-green teas on crushed ice. It's nice that one of my creative writing students is working there, and we chat with him for awhile. I write Tarah a check and pay her an advance for 20 hours of work she'll be doing for me in the next few weeks. She is wearing a beautiful red dress that looks very cute on her. Her hair is long and dishwater blonde, and her eyes, today, look light blue-gray. At other times they are smoldering green. I hold back tears as I wait for her, call and order a vegan dinner to go (for one, me) from Native Foods, which I'll pick up in Palm Springs just before I take her home. I want to go the long way, on Highway 111, so I can keep her with me just a few minutes longer. She chats about finding one of her middle school friends on facebook, a girl with a famous uncle (Mario Lanza, the singer) and talks about the time she went with her friend to Disneyland in a limo in the 6th grade, about how some of her super-rich Palm Desert friends are now living: brand new sports cars, parents who own global corporations - really - those who are all over Europe having fun - and she sighs. And says, but I'm happy, really happy, because I'm married to someone I love, and I'd rather have that than all the money in the world without love.

You were married in one of the town's most beautiful cathedrals. I'm good at driving on the freeways. My aunt lives in a neighborhood subdivision in the flanks of the massive, ancient Mojave River where an entire woolly mammoth skeleton was found not long ago. On Grand Mammoth Lane, near Grand Triassic Road. Some things endure. Some things, endure. Even if we have to imagine them because they're gone. Like you. It's all changed but somehow the road winds back in on itself again, and I've been driving or driven along these freeways, and earlier incarnations of them, since I was a little girl. A snow cones with blue syrup on a heat-shocked day. A lot of the ice melts into a blue mess before I can finish it. Catholic weddings, cars going too fast. It feels like home, a single long sigh of relief passing through a heart that is somehow always out of place. Tarah is living in Palm Springs, on a street named for one of the desert's giant lizards: Chuckwalla Road.

"they had no word for this"

"you must change your lives"
--Rainer Maria Rilke, from "Letters to a Young Poet"


My name is Ruth Nolan. I'm a creative writing and English professor and book editor/author living in Palm Desert. This is a piece of writing I never could have imagined, prior to this past spring, writing, let alone dreaming. This is a tragic telling, one from which I am scantily protected, nearly five months after the fact, after my life and the lives of so many others connected to a single instant's event, went from white to black without a blink, and changed painfully, horrifically, irrevocably. Some days - like today - I feel so weighted down and crushed I can barely perform. Crying jags come on, unannounced, with a schedule of their own. As I shared with a friend recently - who also suffered a shocking loss of her own not long ago - and she agreed: "I'm okay. But I'm not okay. I'm really not okay."

It's not easy to write this. My stomach is in knots, and I've been dreading sharing this for months. My sole encouragement: to share my story, the barely speakable, tragic ending to the story of an amazing person who was one of the best friends and most gifted people I've known in my entire life, in the hopes that this will help others in their struggles to heal from the loss, such as this one, of someone they loved better than life itself. I write this in a mixed state of shock, tears, numbness, and overwhelm, and it is through these words that I hope to continue to move through the most tragic event I've experienced in my life.

And I write this because I've been asked to write this, by a newly-created local organization - part of the nationwide American Foundation for the Prevention of Suicide - that is reaching out to intervene for others: before it is too late. I teach at a college, and so many of my young adult students are struggling with difficulties and challenges I never imagined at their age: lack of jobs, lack of classes, parents losing homes, a ten-year-old war claiming so many of their own, and more. They need adult support, and although I can barely manage it now, my abiding concern for all of my students - past - present- future - helps me write this now. Like it not, I'm a community leader, and so, I pen these words now, and share a bit of my private details - far from all of them - in the hope that it might help someone you know. Or you.

Early on the morning of Friday, April 9, 2010, I awoke my boyfriend Philip to tell him good-bye. I was headed for Berkeley, California, to make a presentation at the Western Wilderness Conference, 2010. I didn't want to leave. Philip had been acting so exhausted, remote, dozing on the couch the day before, and he told me he thought he had the flu. I had cooked him a really nice dinner, and was moved to tears when, in a very sweet voice, he suddenly said out loud (I thought he was asleep): I really love to watch you cook for me. It makes me feel loved:

He insisted that I go to the conference. I told him I'd be racing back on Sunday morning, that I'd pick him up all kinds of cool fliers and handouts at this environmental event. We'd do something fun the next weekend, when he felt better. Visit one of the many hot springs resorts we loved to check out, during the three years we were friends. Maybe get in another desert wildflower spring hike in the Santa Rosa Mountains. Or talk about our ideas for organic gardening/farming, Philip's passion. And so I flew to Oakland.

I remember standing on a balcony at the Martin Luther King, Jr. student union, top floor, in the late afternoon, and looking out at a clear view of the San Francisco Bay, and feeling, suddenly, really quiet - a spiritually effervescent moment that put me in a strange daze and made me uneasy for the rest of the night. That evening, I had a series of horrific dreams, which awoke me, and I struggled to make it through Saturday until the evening's presentation and then catch the first plane home. As we all often do, I managed to (barely) curtail thoughts of "something wrong at home," somehow pulled through making my presentation, and rushed home. And from there, it was all a horror show. Five police cars arrived not long after I did.

My house had been staked out since Friday night, neighbors later told me. I was advised - not knowing what was going on, only that Philip's car was gone - to call the Cabazon Police. And I was told, in an impassive phone call, that my longtime friend and lover was "gone" from a "shooting accident" that had happened on Friday afternoon. Which had turned out very quickly to be ruled the dreaded word nobody ever wants to experience: suicide. It's still so hard to reconcile, to look at pictures of me at that event, knowing Philip was already "gone" by then, and I had absolutely not the least clue. Except that I had that awful, gnawing feeling in my gut and felt compelled to take the earliest Sunday morning plane home, phone calls to him going unanswered. Which wasn't unusual for Phil, he wasn't one to chat on the phone. Maybe, I thought, he ran out of minutes. Which was also common. And then. I got home. But....we had just gone camping! We had fun plans! Phil - a doctor's son - had plans for his organic farming ambitions - for his deep interest in natural healing practices & alternative medicine, which was incredibly knowledgeable about -- ! ?????

My life went off a cliff that day. It plunged from helicopter to broken bone free-fall on a flight I never embarked on, an entanglement with every body part going the wrong way. I stunned awake to find myself on a remote peak where I sometimes doze and sometimes awake and scream and sometimes find small solace in the visit of a yellow butterfly or the new nest of a small bird, or hummingbirds keeping tabs, and lately even bees coming to comfort me - before night falls again and I'm trying to not get sliced by stars, and trying to keep the maurauding mountain lions at bay. Some moments, a promise of cloud or moisture for burn wounds. Infection raging, and then cooling down. Not knowing if am human or if I'm in clock zone without arms.

It was and continues to be a beautiful spring day turned inescapable nightmare that rages on its own accord, like a fully-engaged wildfire that can't be contained - I used to work on helicopter hotshot and fireline crews, some fires rage for weeks, they develop a life of their own - and this, my friends and strangers, is a permanent fire season. A fire that never went out and is only, barely manageable. Not contained, not controlled. Just survived. Sometimes it backs down, and I am walking through mountainsides of ash - alternating between cold gray matter and suddenly burnt on a "hot spot" that never cooled off. We've had zero rain this summer. And fall is usually worse for those of us in southern California. I control nothing. The fire runs this show. It takes my entire stamina to survive.

My message to anyone and everyone reading this. Philip: talented, brilliant, self-made, entrepreneur, beloved by everyone he knew, gorgeous, kind, gifted musically and cosmic beyond words - never said a word. None of us will ever know "why" and it really doesn't matter now. What matters is that one of the planet's finer soul-brothers is inexplicably gone, just gone, leaving behind only a few material things. A walking stick, a few clothes in my house which I returned to his family; music downloaded on my PC which I listen to every day. The reminders every day in every way. I can't take a hike, can't think a thought, can't take a breath without inhaling the pain of this loss. He was 25 years old and wise and perfect far beyond his years. He and I knew each others' souls firsthand from the minute we met and I refuse to un-imagine the views and beauty of the incredible vistas -Jungian, literally, poetically - that we shared and inspired each other to find. Nothing, not even this tragedy, can detract from what he added to our friendship, and to those whose lives he touched in his brief time here. He was one-of-a-kind.

That he had the inner torment, pain, whatever it was that made him feel that he had to end his life - and never shared it to me or his family - is among the worst side effect of this. I can't imagine how I knew someone so well, or thought I did, and lived with for first a year, in 2008, and then for the 6 months leading up to his death - would choose to kill himself. Let alone someone with such a bright mind and soul, spirit of aliveness, passionate love for life, potential, a young man who earned the full admiration and inspiration of everyone he knew. That he felt this was what he had to do - I knew/know Philip that well, to know that this was not a rash choice, he was incredibly smart and strategic in how he lived his life - indicates to me that he felt he was without recourse or alternate option. Look at the pressures facing us as individuals and a society today. I think it's no coincidence, awfully, that young-adult and middle-age-adult suicide is on a sharp rise. And this is what I wish to address now.

I am not going to write fake stuff, that life is always great, and that nobody should every think of killing themselves. What I will say is this: a suicide does not occur in isolation. It digs a deep wound through everyone associated, and leaves lifelong traumatic loss-marks. Perhaps if we, as a society, can finally move beyond our bullshit attitudes, dismissal, cruelties and marginalization of those who are more aware, awake, vulnerable, alone, and affected by the collective trials facing all of us now, then perhaps the topic of "suicide" can be elicited - with a strong emphasis on what leads to these thoughts in the first place - and we, as a culture, can begin to articulate the language of this most awful and irreversible of things, and perhaps cultivate an awareness and empathy - not just sympathy afterwards, but PREVENTION, damnit - that allow us as a collective whole to stem the awful tide of desperation that churns in so many peoples' souls in these scary times. As it does sometimes in me, like anyone else.

I take my inspiration now (and believe me, it's a narrow thread, but I cling to it like a stranded sailor lost at sea for days might cling to that tiny piece of raft....or wood....somehow mustering the belief and strength in rescue, safety, a better day): from the simple fact that many of the tribes of Native American people of our country, who have lived in harmony for centuries - prior to Anglicization - with their souls, within extremely close and sustainable, inclusive and integrated communities, and with the earth, had no word for suicide. They not only didn't have suicide. They had no word for it. Because no one ever felt so alone, so without a concept or a word when experiencing some heavy stuff, that they felt that body-death could solve one's inner, insolvent and inarticulable struggling and pain.

Suicide is not romantic. It's no joke. It's a violent form of genocide in its own way, no matter how "alone" someone thinks they are. If the concept of death is seen as alluring, or mystical, or a last ditch act that will "end the pain and lead a better afterward," then that probably offers some form of relief/encouragement to someone suffering abysmal emotional-mental-brain physical pain - tragically, ironically, it's often the sense of "being cut off from others" that leads to someone thinking they are only ending their life - not in a certain way ending something in the lives of all of those who a related to, or know them.

Remember: suicide is not natural. I'm no expert, but my own research has allowed me to tentatively conclude here that it is an extreme matter, which comes from the pressure, internal and external, extreme circumstances, biological and social. In so many cases, we are dealing that fatal combination of biological propensities, which increasingly can't endure our roughshod, chaotic societal ways. How about, as a culture, we get over the concept of "death as the end" and start to celebrate our eternal soul-selves here on the planet, in a sustainable way. Pain never goes away. We have to learn to negotiate with it. The pain that suicide causes to myriad others solves nothing, it only spreads the pain, as does war. It's as erroneous of a solution as is pouring battery acid on all of your skin just because your finger has a cut and hurts. We must learn to help and heal each other, in the here and now. It doesn't happen in isolation. It takes "the whole village."

Let's feel safe to ask for help. Let's feel safe to offer help. Most of all, let's feel safe, and not waste any more time, to create a society-wide "help desk" where those suffering the unimaginable overload of brain-synapse-stimuli network breakdown can feel safe to ask for help, and safe to receive help, and safe to have a vocabulary of words to use to articulate what they feel. Without thinking it's a black mark forever on their reputation. Without, most importantly, feeling isolated, feeling failed, feeling that "death" is the only option. Education, here, with compassion, is key. Most of all, let's end the "blame game" that leads many who commit suicide to never tell anyone of their plans - the idea that those considering suicide are "defective" somehow.

Would we tell someone with diabetes to just "snap out of it," or tell them we are tired of hearing them talk about their insulin dosages? Having many diabetic friends + family members, I believe that talking about their medical condition on a regular basis is what allows them in managing their illness, and in feeling some comfort in this. I've watched awareness + education of breast cancer take huge strides in my lifetime, erasing the onetime stigma (my grandmother died far too young of advanced breast cancer in the 70's because she was too embarrassed to tell anyone until it was too late) and saving countless lives. Likewise, AIDS_HIV education-prevention has made huge strides thanks to fairly early social discussion and awareness, even though it continues, sadly, to retain stigma to some.

Mental illness- depression - and all its other forms - all of the conditions that can and do far too often tip the scales for someone who is vulnerable to them - need to become table topic discussion words right now!! Let's erase the stigma once and for all, take the "mental" out of "illness." Let's quit mocking and dismissing those with "mental illness" and pushing them aside, social behaviors that I assure you only make matters exponentially, often with fatal consequences, much worse for those suffering, so often in silence. It's not hard, so sadly, to see why some people suffering like this choose not to talk about it. Because they know that they are then sitting ducks, when it comes to so many crucial life needs: like finding a job, or even just functioning in the many areas of society that are necessary for us all. Let alone the stigmas coming so often from one's own family and friends in regards to the "diagnosed." I can't imagine we'd be so cruel to one with a heart condition. Which may or may not have been exacerbated by genetics + modern life, but probably was/is a combination of both and quite hard to avert.

It's my hope to work with the American Foundation for Suicide Prevention, particularly for teens and young adults, to help take the steps towards understanding. Not just helping "survivors" and not just putting a band-aid on the "problem." But to help us all, as a collective whole, learn what it means to create, develop, and practice compassion for humankind, the type of love-living and acceptance and open discussions and behavior that lessen, and starting NOW, this ridiculous concept of each individual struggling alone against increasingly insurmountable odds.

with my best, if tired, foot forward - hoping I am on some kind of solid ground - and most sincerely - Prof Ruth Nolan/College of the Desert.

And most of all, in the quiet and loving memory of Philip, and with respect and honoring of his loving family.In fact, Philip himself created this blog for me more than two years ago, and encouraged me to start this blog, and creatively selected my user-name and password, so I feel his energy here with all of us in the here and now.

Friday, March 22, 2013

Ward Valley 15th Anniversary Ceremony, Feb 10, 2013


Dark Medallion, Quarter Moon
--At the 15th anniversary of the defeat of a proposed radioactive waste facility in Ward Valley, an area of the Mojave Desert sacred to the Colorado River Indian people, February 10, 2013.

Near Interstate 40,
A few miles along Water Road,
In the heart of the Mojave
The deceased ancestors walk through
Ward Valley, 60 miles long
Until they reach the Milky Way
In the throat of the Turtle Mountains
And the wildcats and coyotes
Mark their paw print time
Near the Old Woman Rock Tower,
And the villagers grind grain on stone
On a February morn, before
Calendars are born. One soft moccasin
Is left behind, and it's advised
To follow the turtle for long life.
Cars speed by, stars wink goodnight,
The fire keeper turns, and walks.

--by Ruth Nolan copyright (c) 2013 by Ruth Nolan


A Few Words on the Ward Valley 15th Anniversary Celebration, February 10, 2013...



I was fortunate to be invited to the 15th anniversary celebration of the defeat of a proposed nuclear waste facility in the area designated by the Bureau of Land Mangement as the Heart of the Mojave. The struggle to safeguard this area, sacred to the region's Mojave, Chemehuevi and other desert Indian tribes for centuries and into the present day, attracted local tribal leaders, desert conservationists, international supporters, as well as members of environmental groups such as Green Action, and when defeated, thanks in large part to a 110 day occupancy by protestors in cold winter weather, was heralded as a major victory by environmentalists and anti-nuclear activists worldwide.

The 15th Anniversary celebration of the preservation of Ward Valley was a heart-warming event - under cold, breezy skies on a brisk winter day -, and participants included desert defenders from throughout Southern California, Nevada, Utah, and beyond.

This special day, which included a building of the sacred fire with the Ward Valley rocks that originally contained the continously-burning fire of the Ward Valley Occupation in 1997-98, featured speakers Steven Lopez and Ron Van Fleet, Mojave tribal leaders; Alfredo Figueroa, Chicano-Chemehuevi activist and historian; and a diverse range of environmental activists. The fire, and impassioned speeches, warmed everyone's hearts with the inspiration to know that victories to protect and safeguard the sacred spaces of the California desert are won, however difficult today's path against new and emerging environmental hazards may be.

As we move forward into the 21st century, the California desert - one of the world's few and precious remaining largely intact ecosystems, with a biodiversity quotient second only the the Amazon Rain Forest - new environmental hazards and threats to this pristine region, in particular, the dozens of proposed and under-construction, large-scale industrial solar and wind facilities, which have already proven to cause enormous amounts of non-recoverable degradation and damage to previously intact areas of the Mojave and other deserts in southeastern California and the western U.S.

photographs by Ruth Nolan copyright (c) 2013 by Ruth Nolan


Monday, November 12, 2012

Veteran's Day 2012 MilTree for KCET Artbound Los Angeles

Veterans Day 2012
MilTree: Healing Military Veterans Through the Arts
Ruth Nolan

The unforgettable memory of the terrorist attacks of September 11, 2001 has passed once again, and commemoration ceremonies have once again played out across the country and world. One event, held on September 11-12, was recently sponsored in the small high desert town of Joshua Tree by MilTree, a new and quickly growing arts-based outreach organization based in the Morongo Basin, whose goal is to show a display of support for veterans of wars who live in the high desert area, some coming from nearby 29 Palms Marine Base, and others who have served in Vietnam and other wars.

"It is our hope that the arts can help bring our returning military veterans, many based at 29 Palms Marine Base, and other members of our high desert community together, and create a safe haven for the types of communication, understanding and healing for those among us who are suffering from the wounds of war in one way or another," says MilTree founder Cheryl Montelle, a dancer, writer, and arts event organizer from Los Angeles who is also a part-time desert resident who has hosted many arts and literature-based events in the Joshua Tree area for the past several years, including the annual Desert Stories show and the author's series at the Red Arrow Gallery.

"So far this year, we have hosted several events that have allowed us to facilitate a coming-together of our area's veterans, active-duty military, and civilians to heal the wounds of the soul through the types of communication created through the arts," says Montelle, who is working closely with Vietnam War veteran and high desert resident Dale Fredenberg in her efforts. MilTree events have focused on storytelling, music, poetry, film screenings, and educational workshops, have included active duty and retired military members and poets, artists, rock climbers, retirees, and a diversity of others from the eclectic high desert community at large.

Montelle was inspired to create MilTree after reading the book "War On the Soul" by Ed Tick, a psychotherapist whose work focuses on the sources and treatment for PTSD that often affects those whose military service takes them to war zones, which he asserts is "a soul disorder, not a mental one." Tick is also an internationally-based lecturer, workshop leader and co-founder of "Soldier's Heart", an organization that works with veterans. Through "Soldier's Heart," Tick has led Vietnam war veterans from the U.S. on visits to Vietnam to meet with war veterans from that country as a way to help heal the wounds of war.

The Sept. 11-12 MilTree event in Joshua Tree drew together artists, musicians, poets, other community members, war veterans and members of the military and their families, and included a screening of Olivier Morel's film "On the Bridge", which examines the effects of war on soldiers who have served in the past decade's wars in the Middle East, such as PTSD and the difficulties of re-adjustment to civilian life. MilTree also offered two free workshops, "The Soul of Community in Healing from the War," and "Women Witnessing the War," both focusing on how community members and others who are connected to military service-members - families, wives, and friends - can learn to understand the effect of war on their loved ones, on their own lives, and how to create help build bridges of healing and communication.

The first MilTree event was a standing-room-only open microphone of storytelling and music hosted by Ted Quinn at Pappy and Harriet's Saloon in Pioneertown this past Memorial Day, where military members and veterans shared their stories with the audience through music and song. Montelle also hosted a reading for Tick from "War On the Soul" at the Red Arrow Gallery this past spring. MilTree also helped promote a program this past summer coordinated by the Homestead Valley Community Center that included volunteers from Yucca Valley and participating Starbucks in the high desert and neighboring Coachella Valley to donate and send packages of coffee and other items to troops currently serving in Afghanistan.

More interactive music, arts, film, and other activities and programs are being planned for upcoming months. Montelle envisions workshops for poetry and art, for example, where participants go into nearby Joshua Tree National Park to draw artistic healing and inspiration from the scenic beauty and power of the desert setting. In a related event that also touches on the theme of the effects of war on human lives, Montelle is also promoting, apart from her work with MilTree and along with Donnie I. Betts, the performance of a one-act play, "Mekong Joe" at the Blak Box Theater in Joshua Tree on Sept 21-22. The production will also feature a discussion with Amerasian actor Joseph Tran Thanh Hai Wandell who was a child of that war and whose life is the focus of the film.

This article originally appeared on Sept 17, 2012 on the KCET Artbound LOS ANGELES by Ruth Nolan, Cultural Journalist @ KCET. Article copyright (c) 2012 by Ruth Nolan

http://www.kcet.org/arts/artbound/counties/san-bernardino/miltree-healing-for-military-veterans-takes-toots-through-the-arts.html

Friday, July 20, 2012

Imagining The Salton Sea: California's Lost Riviera in Three Cinematic Adventures

July 19, 2012
KCET | Artbound Los Angeles | Ruth Nolan, Cultural Journalist in the California Desert

It's almost impossible to live in Southern California and not have heard of the Salton Sea, which just happens to be our state's largest lake.

Created accidentally in a two-year period between 1905-07, when a Colorado River irrigation project went terribly wrong, the 15-mile wide, 35 mile long sea - which fills up but a fraction the area in southeastern Riverside and northern Imperial Counties once filled in by Ancient Lake Cahuilla - has come to symbolize the arc of our state's boldest adventures and highest aspirations, and, in the past few decades, has reflected some of our worst social and economic challenges and nightmares, which glare all too clearly back at us from -200 feet below sea level from this vast body of water.

The Salton Sea, 30% saltier than the Pacific Ocean and getting saltier, has been ripe cinematic fodder for many films, many of them offering dysoptian visions of our Golden State's hopes and dreams gone terribly wrong, and an even more despairing, post-apocalyptic future yet to come.

However, several contemporary film-makers have boldly taken the plunge to counter-act these disturbing stereotypes; these recent cinematic works miraculously part the murky waters to reveal an astonishing depth of riches in the stories of the people whose lives are staked out along its shores. Israeli-American Alma Ha'rel's Bombay Beach (2011), Los Angeles-based filmmakers Chris Metzler and Jeff Springer's Plagues and Pleasures on the Salton Sea, narrated by the iconic cinematographer Jon Waters, (2004) and the cult classic Into the Wild (2007), produced by Sean Penn, have breathed new life and energy into the stale, dystopian stereotypes that have all too often come to represent how we perceive, and think about, the people who are drawn to live and spend time at the Salton Sea.

"Many of the people of the Salton Sea live on the fringe of society," says Metzler. "They celebrate their own individualism, but it's not in a selfish way. Through their perceptions and misperceptions, the strange history and unexpected beauty of the Salton Sea, along with uniqueness and strengths of the people there, are revealed."

In fact, it appears that, as depicted by these films, the area may be experiencing a sort of renaissance, even in the face of much adversity and the tough economic circumstances that aren't just endemic to the region. There's a whiff here of the optimism and enthusiasm that once spawned the racing boat yacht clubs built in the 1940's by entertainment notables Frank Sinatra and others to service the throngs that once filled recreation-seekers at the Salton Sea's beaches - not to mention the passion for the sea's environmental preservation generated by the late Sonny Bono back in the 1980's and early 90's, and in whose memory the Salton Sea National Wildlife Refuge has been named.

Increasing salinity and other ecological problems face the sea today, not to mention the demand for its water by neighboring San Diego county, and its future remains uncertain, and yet it persists, no matter how hard the sun beats down -- Much like the people in these hopeful and inspiring documentary films.

In contrast to earlier Salton Sea-inspired cinematic delights, such as the black and white 1950's era thriller The Monster that Challenged the World, the despair-infused The Grifters (1990), based on novelist Jim Thompson's noir classic, and the disturbing, crystal meth-infused murder and mayhem depicted in The Salton Sea (2002), these other cinematic works dive much deeper to reveal an astonishing panoply of real-life people whose widely diverging lives somehow manage to intersect at the Sea's imposing, heat-glossed shores.

"It's a mood and an internal feeling that you get when you step into Bombay Beach that I was trying to capture; it's a side of America that I feel I've never seen," says Alma Ha'rel, whose Bombay Beach won the Unanimous Vote of the 2011 Tribeca Film Festival Jury for its "beauty, lyricism, empathy and invention." Ha'rel picked three rather unlikely subjects for her film study: an octogenarian man named Red; a little boy named Benny who's been diagnosed with bipolar disorder; and Ceejay, an aspiring high school football player who has recently moved to the Salton Sea to escape inner-city gang violence in Los Angeles.

Ha'rel's film, along with Plagues and Pleasures of the Salton Sea and Into The Wild, stand as a testimony to the human spirit to invent, dream, and thrive, even in the face of, or perhaps as an antidote to, the type of sweltering isolation and adversities imposed by the extreme heat, widespread fish die-offs that fill its beaches with carcasses and bones, and continued threats to its sustainable future, for humans and wildlife - including the thousands of migratory birds that winter there, among them, a small band of pink flamingos that are believed to have escaped from a San Diego Zoo some years ago.

Ha'rel finds common threads in the lives of each of these main subjects of her film, and ties their stories of hope and perseverance together with the power of beautifully-rendered dance sequences imbedded throughout the film to the music of Bob Dylan and the band, Beirut. " I shot many of the scenes at sunset," she says. "There is something really magical about that place. You just have to go there to see it for yourself." Bombay Beach is currently being screened to enthusiastic audiences throughout the U.K.

"Plagues and Pleasures of the Salton Sea," has a slightly different vision of the human element of the Salton Sea than Ha'rel does, and imparts a slightly more ironic and sometimes humorous view of some of the people he interviews in his film, but that doesn't detract from the film's integrity. "I have huge affection for the offbeat and quirky, and the Salton Sea was my fantasyland come true," says Metzler. The film was recently shown on PBS SoCal, and will be screened free of charge for desert-area residents this fall at the Coachella Valley Historical Museum in nearby Indio.

And, the academy award nominated biographical drama film Into the Wild (2007), produced by Sean Penn and starring Emile Hirsch, Kristin Stewart, Marcia Gay Harden, along with other luminaires. The film, based on the best-selling biographical novel of the same name by author Jon Krakauer, places many of its key scenes in Salton City as it follows the Thoreau-styled search for individual truth and meaning made by 22-year-old protagonist Christopher McCandless, an Emory University graduate who leaves his wealthy family behind to pursue his own brand of rugged survivalist. The passion and authenticity of McCandless's journey are deeply imparted upon the people he meets while spending several months in Salton City; not surprisingly, the film continues to gain a widespread following, especially among a young adult audience.

One of the film's most memorable sequences, at a landmark located at the northwestern shore of the Salton Sea, shows McCandless running up a steep, rugged desert mountain at Travertine Point as he leads a lonely, 83-year-old retiree named Franz to a place where they can look out across the sea, not exactly someone would expect to see in the middle of one of the world's most foreboding deserts. But there it is, sparkling blue and clean and true and clear, forever imprinted into memory.

Just like the Salton Sea itself, and the stories of those who some might consider social outcasts or misfits, who reinvent themselves every day just as the makers of the one-of-a-kind yet somehow universally appealing films Bombay Beach, Plagues and Pleasures of the Salton Sea, and Into the Wild impart, upon us all, the revealing and relevant stories of people whose lives flow along the sea's shores and raise their voices into one, never to be entirely submerged, or forgotten, and somehow, against all odds, are somehow brought to the big screen, even bigger than life itself, in places least expected. Just like the Salton Sea, itself.

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http://www.kcet.org/arts/artbound/counties/riverside/the-salton-sea-californias-lost-riviera-returns-to-life-in-three-cinematic-adventures.html

Wednesday, March 21, 2012

Desert Word Walk - Magnesia Falls Canyon to Cahuilla Indian Village Site

Hiking In Magnesia Falls Canyon to a Cahuilla Indian Village Site, Near Rancho Mirage, California March, 2012

by Ruth Nolan, "Desert Word Walker" blog columnist for Heyday Books www.heyday.com

The desert is traversed by many mountain ranges, some of them long, some short, some low, and some rising upward ten thousand feet. They are always circling you with a ragged horizon, dark-hued, bare-faced, barren – just as truly desert as the sands which were washed down from them. – John C. Van Dyke, from "The Desert" (1901), a classic of California desert literature


here I am next to several shiny, flat, "milling slicks" on boulders at pah-wah-te

Today, on a perfect, 70-degree day in March, I’ve joined an archaeologist in the Rancho Mirage Cove, near Palm Springs, to explore and hike a mile back into the narrow, steep slot of Magnesia Falls Canyon to an well-used Cahuilla Indian Village site, pah-wah-te. When we reach the village site, we’ll be looking for evidence of longtime habitation: petroglyphs, potsherds, hand-held manos - fist-sized, round rocks that were used to grind seeds and nuts - and milling slicks, which are large, flat stones whose surfaces have been polished by seed and nut grinding to such a smooth pitch that they appear to have been varnished.

And I'm personally grateful for the invitation to join a small group of people, new acquaintances, if not really friends, to do what I love: get outdoors, walk in the desert, enjoy the company, and make the larger connections to earth and ancestors that give a necessary resonance and depth to life beyond my current circumstances, lonely and bereft as they've been in the past year.

Specifically: since my only child and daughter, Tarah, 23, moved to the Seattle area last summer, and the crushing, sudden ending of a new romantic relationship that had seemed, so beautifully after the tragic loss of my longtime love, to be leading me joyfully into a new life, I've been the loneliest I can ever remember being in my life. In the odd and isolating months since then, the desert, my longtime, comforting lifelong home, has suddenly seemed to be a glaring oppressor, filled with empty expanses, too-silent hours, and a far too hostile symphony of sun.
Empty nest, empty heart, empty life, and there's only one trusted antidote for all of that - to walk the desert again and again, as long as it takes, until I arrive somewhere I recognize, maybe memories of places that link me to stories I remember, somewhere I feel part of the human experience, somewhere I can hear, really listen to, a human voice or two. Somewhere there is a sense...of life to share.

And so, here I am on this day, under the guidance of the archaeologist, making my first steps on the faintest, still-visible threads of what was, for centuries, a well-used Indian trail traversing the north-south length of the Coachella Valley desert area all the way from Palm Springs to the Salton Sea, along which a number of village sites were located, it became a route of exploration for California geologist William Phipps Blake, who led the 1862 Southern Pacific Railroad survey team here; then, it formed a vital leg of the famous Bradshaw Trail, which crossed the desert over 100 miles to and from the gold mines along the Colorado River near Blythe; and finally, into the well-traveled, six-lane, multi-desert city road that it is today.

The Rancho Mirage cove is at the mouth of one of the many highly-valued, wind-protected canyons along the western/southern edges of California desert’s Coachella Valley that line the base of the rugged, dry, Santa Rosa Mountains, which jut steeply skyward as high as 10,800 feet from a near-sea level valley floor. It’s not uncommon to spot an endangered Bighorn Peninsular Sheep here: we’re at the border of a federal sheep protection area monitored by the U.S. Department of Fish and Game, and these cliffs are where the sheep are most at home. It feels good to recognize that in what appears to be the loneliest of places, there are creatures that call this land of what appears to be exile their home.

And to my pleasure, I remember that a walk in the desert, however ambient the day may appear, is never without some startling circumstance that, with distilled irony, manages to seem natural and perfectly in place, and today’s hike is no exception. Bighorn sheep and a highly upscale golf resort, dwelling side by side, with a few hikers thrown for a day adventure into the narrow middle of the mix? Hard to believe, but true. We walk along a 100-foot wide sheep and hiker-designated access corridor, past the lavish, 200-acre estate of one of California’s most prolific Bay Area dot.com tycoons – which sports a private, 18-hole golf course and 20,000 square foot mansion and fills most of the Rancho Mirage Cove. On one side of this corridor, trucks of landscapers and maintenance men wave to us as they enter and leave the estate’s gates. On the other side, our archaeologist points out rows of ancient rock mounds, up to two and three feet high, likely placed centuries ago as sun and star alignment markers by those who inhabited the region long ago.

The cove narrows and seems to reach an impassable dead-end. There’s a small oasis of several Washingtonian Fan Palm trees that offer shade and a bathtub-sized pool of water used as a drinking source by the Bighorn Sheep that visit here at dawn and dusk, and especially during the searing hot summer months. Several piles of sheep droppings, which are the shape and size of rabbit dung, reveal that the oasis has been recently visited by a small herd of the magnificent creatures. I also notice several sheep tracks, another exciting sign that life does, indeed, survive, if not thrive, in these treacherous hills.

And here, the canyon narrows abruptly, both vertically and horizontally, into a another of the desert's own brand of deadpan, contradictory surprises: we've reached a steep, dry waterfall 75 feet high. Although dry today, in the arid, early March weather, the rock face is lip gloss smooth and very slippery, evidence that water, indeed, has passed through here, with what appears to be voluminous quantities. This is the only route in and out of the canyon from here, and is the first in a series of other dry waterfalls that will also have to be climbed. But I am up for the challenge. I'd rather be here, taking the risk of falling, than to be at my house, feeling like the last person who dropped off the edge of the desert where the old Bradshaw Trail ends: at an abandoned, gutted mine that can no longer be plundered for its gold.

Several hikers decide to turn back, not wanting to risk a fall, but I brave the first waterfall climb, and after that, climbing the others isn’t so bad. I gain confidence and know that, if there is a village site ahead, then there have undoubtedly been many others who have passed through here before me - humans and sheep and probably mountain lions, coyotes, lizards, and snakes - and I feel a certain sense of belonging on a special kind of pilgrimage so easily and often forgotten by contemporary woman and man. And after negotiating an hour’s worth of narrow twists and turns in the sandy wash of the canyon, we arrive at the relief of shade offered against the noon sun and warming temperatures by a huge group of palm trees here: we’ve reached pah-wah-te.

It feels good to rest and listen to the other hikers as they marvel in awe at where we are, of how good it feels to sit in the relief of shade offered by the tall palm trees here. As I run the palm of my hand along the smooth rock face of one of the village site’s milling slicks, and learn that seeds from these palm trees, ground on the slick, was a vital food source for the people who once lived here, I can almost imagine that I hear voices from long ago, the voices and words of others who once passed through here, and perhaps even the voices of those who are yet to come. The voices of those I'm with today mingle with these imaginary, but all-too-real and proven onetime past and possibly future visitors to this site.

And suddenly, what felt like a remote desert hike suddenly becomes a place of life and humanity, full of stories and events, voices marking the passing of life and time, stories whose depth and richness can only be fully known by the ever-staring rock faces of the canyon walls, and above them, the magnificent granite cliffs of this mountain range, and the largest peak of all, described as I a kitch by Cahuilla elder and religious leader Francisco Patencio – born in this region in 1840 – know for sure.

And suddenly, this oasis, this ancient village site, this destination for a day hike for a group of friends and frequent stopping point of bighorn sheep and other desert creatures becomes an extension of home, one illuminated and made all the brighter by the omniscient desert sun, just now cresting for a short while, at mid-day, high noon, high above the steep canyon walls that loom above, before slipping into the shadows towards twilight again. As I look to the highest cliff, there it is: the silhouette of a solitary sheep, poised for seconds at the highest nosebleed heights in a place where arguably, no human has been or will every likely be; it nods its massive head towards us before it whispers its way into invisibility beyond the next ridge, leaving the scent of its heart, the memories of its long voice, on my day. I saw it. I felt it. I know it is alive. As am I.


story and pictures by Ruth Nolan copyright (c) 2012 by Ruth Nolan